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Cusco – Puerto Maldonado (InterOceánica)
From Cusco to Urcos on the road that
leads to Puno (Avenida de la Cultura) it’s 48km, all paved.
Urcos (3120masl) has accommodation, a few restaurants and a
cheap place for a haircut (:
It’s another 5km on pavement to the turnoff to
Puerto Maldonado, then a steady climb on mostly good gravel, to
the pass at about 4200masl. The top section is very windy and has
deep bull dust in the corners. Then it’s a 14km downhill to
Catcca (accommodation and a few restaurants)
The next section is only open at night and on Sundays
(due to road works) so time it well! It’s 9km rather flat, followed
by 13km up to another 4000masl pass (great views and a little bit of
pavement) and 13km down to Ocongate (Sunday market,
accommodation and a few restaurants). Then it’s 10km on bad gravel
to Tinki (accommodation and a few restaurants)
From here it’s another 13km to Mahuayani where
you can find the last hostel this side of Hualla Hualla. On
the next 23km you’ll leave the Valley of the Rio Mapocho and head
left into a side valley with a lake and lots of glaciers at the end.
The last climb is up the right hand side of the valley, but it’s not
too steep and with great views. Hualla Hualla is at 4820masl
(source: Footprint, we heard other higher numbers too, but there
must have been a sign stating the
4800masl a few years ago). Here the dry wind from the altiplano
meets the wet clouds coming from Amazonia. Dress up!
A steep 47km downhill to Marcapata follows.
Here, at 3150masl you’ll find accommodation and restaurants plus,
hot springs 1.5km down the road. A very welcome muscle relaxant!
It’s from here that you’ll get the last view of a
snowcapped peak. This stretch is all downhill with a few river
crossings, the last bit in jungle. In all there are 70km to
Quincemil (600masl), a gold digger town.
You won’t need blankets anymore! (Accommodation and a
few restaurants)
The 57km from here to Inambari (very basic
accommodation and a few shops) are the best for jungle views, rivers
to cool off in and butterfly spotting (millions!) Here there is
another road block during the day (trucks have to stop in San
Lorenzo) and the last 14km to Mazuko are not so enjoyable in
the dark with all the trucks and buses that try to drive you off the
road. Mazuko is another very lively gold rush town, with a
few good restaurants to choose from and at least half a dozen
hostels.
The last 30km of up and down through lush forest is
here. Once you reach Sta. Rosa (restaurants), 140km
before Puerto Maldonado, it’s all more or less flat and the
land on the roadside is cultivated. There are restaurants at km 110
(hostel too), 98, 83 and 50. At km 50 there is a turnoff to
Laberinto, (6km) another lively place on the Madre de Dios
River, where you can sell all the gold you’ve found along the way.
Nice place to stay and plenty of eateries.
The last 50km from the Laberinto turnoff to Puerto
Maldonado (250masl) have some of the worst gravel, but the final
12km are paved. Here you’ll find all sorts of accommodation and
restaurants, one ATM machine, offices from local airlines and eco
tours into the Tambopata Reserve, a big market and a harbor.
Having said that, it’s a very big small town and you could be the
only happening thing there (:
Note:
The distances are approximate and the roadwork
project for the next 5 years will mean sections of the route will be
closed to traffic for dynamite blasting etc. Check with the police
before heading out.
www.gonebikeabout.com, Sept ’06
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