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Sept 10 to Oct 2
Caminha - Esposende - Barcelos - Braga - Guimaraes - Oporto - Aveiro -
Mira - Coimbra - Tomar - Lisbon
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Never
was a border so obvious as the ferry crossing into Caminha, northern
Portugal. Multicoloured tiled houses, churches dripping with gold,
cobblestone streets and a language we didn't speak all made for a dramatic
entrance to this land on the edge of Europe. "In Portugal... we eat!", was
the welcome we received in the tourist office, as the jolly plump lass
dismissed Spanish bits and pieces as an excuse for food.
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The Atlantic coast
of Portugal boasts wonderful, quiet, sandy beaches that continue for
miles. Beauty in its simplist form. Waves crash in with great force and
there's a real feeling of being somewhere, as the ocean stretches
endlessly ahead. This is quite a change from the sheltered Rias and the
Cantabrian coast of Spain, we had en route. |
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Braga |
If there's one
thing that Portugal leads on, that is their floral, manicured city parks
and gardens. Tiny hedgerows border a blaze of colour in every village and
town. |
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The
Bom Jesus Sanctuary towers over a zig-zagging stairway, almost to heaven. Little
painted chapels, depicting the Passion of Christ, lead up the path to a
magnificent church overlooking the city of Braga. |
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Bom Jesus Church, Braga |
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Situated on the
northern bank of the River Duero, Oporto/Porto is the friendly,
scenic home of port wine. The wine is unique in that it is fortified and
blended. Its high sugar and alcohol content makes it quite the hip flask
beverage for grandma and grandpa alike. |
Sandeman Port advertisement |
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Shop fronts in
Oporto |
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Oporto on the
River Duero |
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Azulejos or
painted tiles abound in Oporto, even in the railway station. The church of
Sao Francisco was gilded with 400kg of gold before Napoleon's troops used
it as a stable, but even today its carved woodwork and golden altars
proudly reflect its former glory. |
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Train station, Oporto |
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The best book
store in Europe - Lello... to while the hours away in style |
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But
where was Portugal, when the EU was handing out their millions for roads?
Or is it that the idea of a sealed, tarmac road is only now slowly being
considered by local engineers as an alternative to bone-rattling,
spine-crushing, tummy-churning cobblestones? When it's not stone mosaics you can expect a corrugated sand track through a hot, dry
nothingness. In short, this is not a cyclists' paradise and we seem to be
the only ones willing to give it a try. |
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One of the three
grand cycling routes we found in Portugal was the 15 km stretch of cycle
paths along the beaches south of Oporto. |
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The second was a
closed road through farmland, where the seasonal golds of the vines
contrasted beautifully with the silver grey olive trees in a dry rust red
earth. Being a tourist allows you to sometimes ignore the detour signs...
and find paradise. |
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The harvest
season |
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The third grand
afternoon was following the Ria in Aveiro. Brightly painted boats,
used for seaweed harvest were tied up on white sand beaches, while the
local fishermen snoozed in the shade of pine trees. |
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Coimbra is famous for its University, dating back to the 12th century. The
university library is a world heritage site well worth the visit. The city
is full of life, and honest students that return lost wallets, as in
Kurt's case! |
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University library, Coimbra |
University chapel, Coimbra |
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The order of the
Templar Knights, renouned for their crusades and their reconquista
efforts in Portugal had their base in Tomar. Their huge fortified castle
and monastery are a prime example of Manueline architecture and reflect
the styles of Jerusalem and middle eastern castles from that time.
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Tomar |
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Darina´s shadow in the evening sun |
Harvested cork tree |
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Fatima,
almost 90 years after the apparitions of Our Lady to the three little
shepherds, is still a magnet for pilgrims who come with great devotion to
this sanctuary. The message of prayer and suffering is taken seriously as
crowds drop to their knees in reverence of what Fatima represents.
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Wax models of all body parts are thrown into flames in request or
gratitude for healing of sickness or disabilities. Fatima. |
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Lisbon, besides its grand boulevards, elegant buildings and lively
pracas, is quite the melting pot of the Portuguese world. Brazilians
rub shoulders with Goans and Angolans, making it a flamboyant people-watching spot. Our friend, Sara, brought us out to a cute, homely
restaurant uptown, where half the clients entertained with Portuguese
Fado songs and poetry, while the rest of us sat back and enjoyed an
enchanting evening.
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Royal carriages Museum, Lisbon |
St Jeronimo's Monastery, Lisbon |
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Praca do Comercio, Lisbon
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Monument of the Age of Discovery
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This
summer Portugal has been in the news for one of its darker sides. To read
more about the horrific destruction caused by the endless forest fires, click here. |
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Grandly situated on the mouth of the River Tejo, Lisbon has been the starting point for many missions
bent on discovery... no better place for us to head off tomorrow on our
adventure to a new continent. It may not be quite the Vasco de Gama voyage
to India, but will certainly enlighten the world with new updates! Watch
this space... |
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