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It's
never easy to reduce a trip to a favourite place or destination. However,
we do have some that left their mark, for better or for worse! After 15
months cycling round South America, here is a sampling of our highs and
lows in the 9 countries we visited. |
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Breakfast
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Best – Brazil
Fresh juice, coffee,
milk, french bread, cheese, ham, butter, jam, doce de leite, cakes
and fresh tropical fruit (included in the hotel price!)
Worst – Paraguay
Very cheap coffee, milk and stale
biscuits...but available from 4am!
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Lunch/Dinner
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Best – Brazil
Even in the smallest
town/roadhouse Brazil wins hands down for quality, variety &
quantity….but our favourites are still the all you can eat
rodizio Pizza & BBQs.
Worst – Southern
Chile
Food generally lacked
imagination & variety or was just not available. The comment
“Oh! I just ran out of that last week” was just too often on the
tip of their tongues.
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Markets
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Best – La Paz &
Cochabamba, Bolivia
You name it they had
it! With colour and charm thrown in for good measure.
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Food Market
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Best – Sucre,
Bolivia
It took us a whole
week to eat our way through one of the local speciality
blackboards and we topped off every meal with the best tropical
fruit salads and juices.
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Most Scenic Routes
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Inter Oceanica Road,
Peru (500km)
From 4,800masl to 250masl we cycled from glaciers and snow-capped
mountains in the altiplano right down
to the lush, Amazon jungle.
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Cafayate Gorge, Argentina
(60km)
Awesome
stone sculptures & rock formations in spectacular rainbow
colours…. and all asphalted!
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Costa Azul & Verde, Brazil
(400km)
From Rio de Janeiro south to Santos, this stretch
is between the Atlantic rainforest and endless white beaches,
along tranquil blue waters dotted with lush islands.
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Sico Pass, Argentina/Chile
(500
km)
From Salta, Argentina to San Pedro de Atacama, Chile, this string of 5
mountain passes exceeding 4,000masl was as beautiful as it was taxing.
Altiplano at its best ... with volcanic peaks, numerous glaciers and
lagoons in kitch colours. |
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Favourite Sites
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Torres del Paine
N.P., Chile
It’s hard to beat this for it’s scenic beauty of
turquoise lakes, snow capped mountains, sheer cliffs, groaning
glaciers and frisky guanacos…. pity about the road!
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Iguazu Falls,
Argentina & Brazil
The sheer size and volume of these falls
are stunning, not to mention their picture postcard material.
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Salar de Uyuni,
Bolivia
The sensation of cycling for 2 days on a solid lake of
salt, showing the curvature of the earth on the horizon, is
too uyunique to be missed!
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Machu Picchu, Peru
It may be the most visited site in South America, but it's easy to see
why. This magnificent Inca citadel, built on top of a huge rock
outcrop and surrounded by jungle, is a must see on any itinerary.
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The Galapagos Islands, Ecuador
We really enjoyed this trip into evolution's laboratory, where exotic
animals show no fear, and pose willingly in unique, volcanic surrounds.
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Favourite Cities
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Cartagena, Colombia
This sugar-candy colonial town
overlooking the Caribbean is definitely one of the
big South American highlights. Beautifully carved
wooden balconies, colourful churches and restored
defence structures add charm as well as a glimpse into it’s
lively past.
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Buenos Aires,
Argentina
Buenos Aires rocks! Shop till you drop, dance tamgo
till the wee hours & let the varying areas enchant you for at
least a couple of weeks.
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Rio de Janeiro,
Brazil
Where else can you find a tropical rainforest right
downtown? Add superb white sand beaches, excellent restaurants
and magnificent viewpoints & you have a mix that’s hard to
beat.
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Valparaiso, Chile
This unique maze built into the side of numerous hills, has a
surprise on every streetcorner.
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People Awards
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Without exception, we
found friendly people throughout South America. The Colombians,
Brazilians and Uruguayans were especially welcoming and helpful, as
were the Argentines.
But for entertainment value, our people
award has to go to the Argentines, who have an expert
opinion on
everything from nuclear science to the perfect Asado Chimichurri. Argentines,
even in
the smallest of villages, can come up with a very convincing answer
on the distance to Alaska. Of course, it is never just a simple, round figure, but rather
something very exact like 7,654.0967km! We know they’re about 10,000km off…. but listening to
them you’d nearly believe it!!!
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Worst drivers
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Peru
The worst stretch
of our whole trip was along Lago Titicaca in Southern Peru. There,
we had trucks and buses that where openly hostile, and even oncoming
vehicles managed to drive us off the road!
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Misiones, Argentina
The main drag north of Posadas was treacherous. The lack of a hard
shoulder, coupled with heavy, fast traffic following the law of
the jungle made this stretch very unpleasant to say the least.
Singer Express bus drivers were the worst offenders.
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Colombia
The lack of
secondary roads in Colombia means that the main highway is just
too busy to be enjoyed. On corners it was obvious that many
drivers had no concept of how long their vehicles were and their tails
were
often far too close for comfort. Add speed and wicked diesel fumes
and you have quite a lethal mix. Brasilia Express bus drivers
earned first place on our black list.
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